Macy’s reinvents classics for men’s closets

By YELENA MOROZ

(May 26, 2008) Men’s fashion is something of an enigma at times. At first glance, it seems simple—just don pants, a button-down shirt and a matching tie and the look is work-ready. Swap the tie for a sweater and it’s casual. The formula is safe, but also a bit tedious.

On the other hand, a typical man is cautious of ‘loud’ takes on fashion, i.e. super skinny jeans. Which is why Macy’s is taking a classic approach to its fall 2008 collections. The silhouettes play up proven items like vests, sweater jackets and cardigans with a modern twist.

In addition to offering a fresh version of the traditional styles, the merchandise aims to drive purchases with novelty. “It’s going to be a tough economy through the fall, so I, personally, feel the focus should be on things he doesn’t have in his closet,” said Steven Cardino, vp and fashion director of the men’s department at Macy’s. “I don’t think this is the season to be running a replacement business. [The customer] doesn’t need a new crewneck sweater, so he might actually step out and buy an item he doesn’t own as a way to reinvent the wardrobe.”

One of the main highlights this fall is the vest, which can be worn in several variations to accommodate men of different ages and fashion prowess. Young men can wear it as the focal point of an outfit by matching it with basics. “We see the vest as an important back-to-school item,” said Cardino, “paired with denim over a tee.” Whether it’s tailored or knit, styles from Kenneth Cole, Guess and Mark Ecko, add edginess to the classic piece.

A more mature customer may want to opt for a sweater vest that’s great on its own, or layered under a jacket. Other vest styles include vest suits and down puffer vests, which look great over a hoodie.

Macy’s also plans to emphasize the bowtie in the third quarter, kicking up the sophistication factor and giving the bowtie “a reason for being.” In fact, Macy’s is rolling out a new collection of bowties via its private brand Tasso Elba.

Another trend zones in on ‘thin,’ and as Macy’s puts it, “Thin Is In.” Those who don’t feel that the skinny pant is flattering for their body types can indulge in the trend by wearing thinner neckties, thin-collared shirts and narrower lapels. Private label Alfani embraces the thin aspect of woven and button-down shirts in both sportswear and dress categories. Cardino hopes that the new style will be a driver for purchases since it’s likely that the customer’s closet is void of narrow silhouettes.

In general, Macy’s is doing an excellent job expressing the main trends via its private label brands. INC International concepts this August is launching a new men’s brand BLK OP, which speaks to a younger customer with its edgy military designs that appreciate chain details and embroidery.

On the sweater frontier, the cardigan and knits are increasingly important. “It’s so exciting for me, as a fashion director, not to have to talk about quarter-zip sweaters anymore,” said Cardino. The cardigan sweater offers a more refined look, but can also be toned down to casual with jeans and a tee.

Most aspiring, however, are the outerwear styles, such as hybrid pieces like knit jackets. Everything from chunky, woven sweater jackets to knit detail on collars and arms help the transition into this new category; many are lined, with quilting as a particularly popular accent. Cardino is especially glad that the knit jackets make a great alternative to fleece.

Also important is the explosion of pocket detail that is here to stay, notably in the form of the four-pocket jacket. When it comes to the puffer jacket, nylon creates the much-coveted contemporary look based on sheen and mixed media. The lightweight jackets also work well when styled with a hoodie and scarf.

As for the color pallet, black is the new black, but purple and red add a dose of color bursts to the range of dark shades.

The accessories department will be focusing on the bag and belt element. In shoes, the spotlight falls on sleek styles with the ‘bit’ that ties to emphasis on branding. Perforation also stands out as a noteworthy detail. “It’s a … much younger aesthetic,” said Cardino. “That’s why it marries so well with all the things that we’re doing.”

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